Food:
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Tarantulas are predators. Being such, they prefer
live food. The most commonly available food source being
crickets. Tarantulas will also eat moths, houseflies, cockroaches,
and beetle larvae (mealworms and superworms). Larger Tarantulas can
as a treat be fed pinkie mice or fuzzy rats. A rule of thumb
is not to feed the tarantula anything larger than half it's body
size. Small spiderlings can be fed fruit flies or pinhead
crickets. Please do not feed your pets wild caught insects unless
you can be sure that they are pesticide free. If your tarantula eats
contaminated food, it can die! Try to give your tarantula some of
the insects besides crickets once in a while as you wouldn't want to eat
only pizza all your life, would you? Uneaten prey should be removed
from the tank within 24 hours as they can stress your tarantula and
possibly even harm it. If your tarantula is in the process of molting,
all prey items should immediately be removed from the tank as the
tarantula is very vulnerable at this time. Be sure to remove any
food remains. Decaying organic matter attracts mites, fungus, mold
and other potentially harmful organisms into the cage. |
Water:
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All tarantulas require a source of drinking
water. This can be in the form of misting the tarantulas enclosure
in the case of spiderlings or with a wide shallow water dish for
tarantulas with at least a 3 inch leg span. Household items that can
be used for water dishes include: Yoo-hoo bottle caps, pill vial lids, or
even the caps from 5 Gallon Water Bottles. |
Substrate:
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There is much debate on the issue of the perfect
substrate for tarantulas and the debate will likely never end. It is
as much a personal choice as anything. Good results have been
reported using
bed-a-beast or jungle mix, which can be found in most pet stores.
Another possible substrate that you may have heard of or had success with is
a 50/50 mix of potting soil and peat moss. Both of these substrates
hold moisture well and support burrowing. A word of caution, if
using potting soil, make sure that there are no pesticides or fertilizer
in the soil as these can harm your tarantula. Vermiculite (NOT
industrial) can also be used as a substrate although there is great debate
on this as it can possibly contain asbestos. Many people have used
it as a substrate with no ill effects on their tarantulas. Other
possible substrates are wood chips or sand. These are not recommended
as
substrates. If you do choose to use wood chips make sure not to use cedar (as it
is a natural insecticide and will possibly kill your tarantula) or pine
chips as it has been reported that the sap is harmful to tarantulas. Sand
does not hold moisture well and gets stale quickly. Neither of these
substrates support burrowing. |
Housing:
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Housing can be as cheap or as expensive as the
individual keeper wants. Anything from plastic Rubbermaid shoeboxes
(with plenty of air holes drilled in of course) to 20 Gallon aquariums
with screen lids can be used to house your tarantula. For
Terrestrials (Ground Dwelling) a rule of thumb is that the tank be twice
as wide as the tarantula and three times as long. For Arboreals
(Tree Dwelling) it's slightly different as height is more important than
floor space. You can use the same rule of thumb as terrestrials, but
stand the enclosure on it's end so that the length transforms to
height. For Terrestrials and Arboreals you would like 2-3 inches of
substrate. For burrowing Terrestrials 3-5 inches of substrate is
more appropriate. Some Old World burrowers need to dig deep into the
soil, so try to provide a sturdy container with plenty of room for the
spider to tunnel away. Enclosure decorum is entirely up to you.
Cork Bark or Driftwood leaned up against the side of the enclosure make
nice hideaways for your tarantula. You can also use a ceramic flower
pot on it's side with the bottom half buried in the substrate.
Burrowers will take care of their own home, do not try to build a burrow
as it will be more prone to collapse. Sometimes, you can help a
tarantula start its burrow by making a depression in the soil next to the
side or corner of the cage. If the spider feels secure enough it
will take advantage and continue the burrowing process. Enclosures should be spot
cleaned after each feeding to remove prey corpses as they are breeding
grounds for mites. Substrate should be completely removed and
replaced every 6 months to a year or as needed. Final Note:
Tarantulas can climb, please make sure you have a SECURE lid on
your tarantulas enclosure. Some tarantulas have been known to tear
through screen material with their fangs or get their tarsal claws
hopelessly caught in it. Observe your pet's behavior and substitute
material as needed to make the cage safe and secure for your pet. |
Climate:
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Most tarantulas can be safely kept within 70 to 85°
F. This is a general range and you should find out the specific
needs of your breed of tarantula. At higher temperatures your
tarantulas metabolism will increase. Meaning it's food and water
needs will increase as will the speed of its growth rate. The
downside to this is that the tarantula will be more prone to dehydration
and it's lifespan will decrease. You must pay careful attention to
make sure your tarantulas needs are being met at higher
temperatures. Humidity in the enclosure should be anywhere from 60
to 85% depending once again on the specific needs of your breed of
tarantula. Humidity can be increased by a number of things.
Misting the tank, a water dish with a wide surface area, keeping the
substrate partially or completely moist, or partially covering the tank
lid. If your tarantula needs
high humidity, make sure that there is adequate ventilation to the
enclosure as high humidity and no ventilation makes a breeding ground for
mold. For desert species of tarantula a small water dish should take
care of all your humidity needs. It is also advisable to let the
temperature drop as much as 10° F at night for tarantulas of this type. |
